Serene Travels: Tulum
Traveling is one of the greatest privileges my life has offered me. I am lucky, and always will be grateful for it. Living in and visiting other places has shaped my worldview -- a major catalyst for my adoption of simple, stylish living. By traveling to foreign lands I saw how little others needed to lead rich lives; by confining my necessities only to the luggage on my back, I learned how little I needed for contentment.
This passed week my husband and I celebrated our anniversary by returning to our honeymoon destination. We love Tulum, Mexico for a myriad of reasons: its simple lifestyle aligns with ours; the white sandy beaches, salty air & sea and the sun's vitamin D are nature's medicine (especially during the winter); the flight is easy and affordable... and on and on I could go.
If you're looking for an all-inclusive getaway with a bumpin' nightlife, Tulum is not for you. Located on the Riveria Maya about ninety minutes south of Cancun, Tulum is a short strip of white sandy beach, minimally developed - in large part because it stands on the edge of a biosphere. The beach is dotted with low-rising eco hotels, the majority of their power coming from wind. Your stay can be as budget-friendly or as chic as you want. There are amazing boutique hotels but there are also camping grounds... or even just your good ol' bus:
In recent years it's become a hot spot - everyone and their mother recommends it as a laid-back destination to get away from it all. Allow me to join the fray by writing this post.
While I'm excited by discovering new places, my heart also skips a beat when returning to a place I love. It makes the trip a combination of the exotic and familiar - exotic for being such a different world than my home, but familiar in that I have my favorite spots to return to.
A Couple Tips:
Exchange cash at the airport. The ATMs are merciless on the Tulum strip and most joints don't accept credit cards.
On your way to there from the airport, have your driver stop (unless you're renting a car) at the grocery store. Stock up on jugs of water (and sunscreen if you didn't already to pack it).
Essentials to Pack:
A hat
A ziplock bag for your mobile - so you can take it with you on those long long beach walks but not fear it crashing with the waves
A poncho. When it does rain, the short storms DUMP rain on you and because of the humidity, your clothes will not dry.
A flashlight... depending on the cycle of the Moon! On our honeymoon, we wandered down pitch black beaches at night. This time around, we had a full Moon, and its light illuminated.
The Look:
Effortless, beachy chic. On the honeymoon I wore a bright lip the first night out to dinner and I felt like I was trying too hard. Leave your make-up and product behind. Daywear consists of bikinis and cover-ups. Bring airy summer dresses and perhaps upgrade your flip-flop to a sandal at night. Have a bobby pin to tie your hair up in a topknot (for the times when you step out of the sun and remove your floppy hat) and call it a day. (Gentlemen, one nice button down for the evening will do you fine.)
Places to Stay
(There are so many more, and they all appear minimal and awesome. You can't go wrong, guys!):
Nueva Vida de Ramiro - our hotel of choice. A wide range of rooms and price points, plus a continental breakfast consisting of killer coffee, fresh squeezed juice, a fruit bowl and a loaf of fresh baked bread (bees will buzz around the jam but they are harmless).
The Mezzanine - at the northern tip of Tulum. We stayed here for part of our honeymoon. Fab decor, an outlook with amazing views of the ocean and a Thai restaurant that makes me want to skip tacos for a meal (more below on that).
Posada Marguerita - my favorite spot on the strip. We start our every day taking a long walk after breakfast and I grab myself a green juice. The green juices are divine (and the size is growing!). The decor is inspired. Also - not that shopping is really on my list of things to do in Tulum - their gift shop is dangerous, carrying Catbird and Lizzie Mandler, for starters.
The Cuisine:
Mexican cuisine makes for feasting healthily - the perfect combo. For those with food sensitivities/allergies, gluten and dairy are easily avoided . It's a drag to be 'that' person at restaurants, but in Tulum I have fresh squeezed juices, guacamole and fish to my heart's content. That's the other major treat: fish. I like my fish fresh so other than coastal trips to NYC or L.A. (or Tokyo ... or Tulum!), I abstain. Here are a couple faves:
Chencho's - best guac in town (and I've tested them all) with warm freshly made corn tortillas to wrap it up in. Hard to find, it's near Zama's and the entrance looks like this:
Le Eutemia - a tiny taco shack sharing some sand with Coqui Coqui. I could eat here every day and never tire of it. The tacos are insane, and the prices are stupid. Also: order coconut water then have your server slice it in half and return it to you like this:
El Camello - ugh THIS is the spot. Located in the town of Tulum proper, you'll need to hail a cab or rent a bike to get there. You'll likely be the only tourists dining. You can't beat the price. But the food? Oh Lordy. The small order of mixed ceviche (is HUGE) is a must. Also the fish dishes: Tikin Xic and Veracruz. Thank me later.
Centzle - Mexican fusion on the jungle side of the strip. Exiting appetizers, but be sure to douse yourself in Off before you enter - it's apparently a mecca for mosquitos...
Mezzanine - the Thai restaurant I mentioned earlier. The curries are sublime.
Casa Banana - the restaurant across from Nueva Vida. The Whole Fish of the day is infused with lime juice - like everything else in Tulum. Mouth-watering.
Tourist attractions & activities:
There is plenty to do in and around Tulum, if tourist attractions are your jam. My man loves them, so on our first trip: we swam in a Cenote (underground caves with fresh water pools - Nature, you astound me.), saw a couple ruins (the Tulum ruins are nearby but you aren't allowed to climb them while Coba is an hour or so drive, and if you can handle heights, the view from atop is gorg!) and had an afternoon of snorkeling (cut short by my on-again-off-again motion sickness. Oopsies.). There are more yoga classes and spa treatments than you can shake a stick at, and if you MUST dance, Le Zebra is the place to go post sundown.
But honestly, walking the beach all morning, laying on the beach all afternoon -- that's why I go, and why we return.